Hello all. Just bought my first boat. An '04 180BR. LOVE IT!!!!!!!!! Quick question: When winterizing, is it as easy as it appears to be or would you recommend a dealer do it? Also, does anyone know of a reputable person or dealer that works on the mercruiser motors (4.3 l; 190hp)?

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Brad

Hi Brad. Congrats on your new boat. I would suggest you post a thread in the Technical Q/A section as you will get a better response. As far as winterizing, I am the wrong person to answer that as to me Winterizing is switching from Lite beer to MGD when we take the boat out in January! :-)

Steve Kroesen
Apollo Beach, FL

Kroes Nest

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Steve Kroesen
Apollo Beach, FL
Kroes Nest

Steve,
Thanks, I'll do that. I like your idea of "winterizing".

Brad Wasden
North Augusta, SC

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Brad

Hello Brad:

I would suggest asking at the following link for a good dealer in your area. The nearest dealer for Crownline is Mid Carolina Marine
718 Sunset Boulevard Hwy. 378
West Columbia SC 29169
803-791-1770
Fax 803-791-9811
Email mcmarine@bellsouth.net

My Dealer is as follows and have always gone beyond what they should do.

http://longshoreboats.com/

As for winterizing, see as follows for your boat. It can be done in 1/2 days and is about a 2 on a scale of 5 in difficulty. Hope this helps.

Inboard Engine(s) - You should run the engine(s) to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine(s) with fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a "Raw Water" cooling system or an "Enclosed Fresh Water" cooling system. While you're in the engine room you should also change the fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use "fogging oil" to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed with a little fogging oil or WD-40.

Fuel - Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a build up of condensation over the winter months. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on the product. Change the fuel filter(s) and water separator(s).

Stern Drive(s) - You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and check for excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner's manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer.

Use fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.

Batteries - Disconnect the battery cables, remove the battery from the boat. Clean the terminal ends and battery with a solution of baking soda and water, rinse thoroughly with clean water. Apply a light coat of grease on the terminal end of the battery and cables. Store the battery in a cool dry place. Use a trickle charger to keep battery charged . Do not charge battery near any open flame or in a confined area.

Bilges - Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills. Once the bilges are clean, spray with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze to prevent any water from freezing.

Fresh Water System - Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect them together. Pump a non-toxic antifreeze into the system and turn on all the facets including the shower and any wash-down areas until you see the antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater.

Head - Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish crystals or whatever your owner's manual recommends that will not harm your system and let sit for a few minutes. Again add fresh water and pump out again. Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Again, check your owners manual to make sure that an alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage your system.

Interior - Once you have taken care of the system you should remove any valuables, electronics, lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc. Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary. Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a climate controlled area. Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer. To keep your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use some of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber products such as "No Damp," "Damp Away" or "Sportsman's Mate."

Out of Water Storage - pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. Open seacocks to allow any water to drain. Check the hull for blisters and if you find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over the winter. While you're at it, why not give the hull a good wax job? It is probably best to take the batteries out of the boat and take them home and either put them on a trickle charger or charge them every 30-60 days.

In Water Storage - Close all seacocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary. Check your battery to make sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure your charging system is working. Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working and that float switches properly activate the pumps and that they are not hindered by debris. Make sure either to check your boat periodically or have the marina check it and report to you. If in an area where the water you are docked or moored in actually freezes, you should have a de-icing device or bubbling system around your boat.


"If you did not learn anything today, you should have stayed in bed"

Capt Thom Nolan, of the good ship "About Time Off", Summerville South Carolina

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"If you did not learn anything today, you should have stayed in bed"

Capt Thom Nolan, of the good ship "About Time Off", Summerville South Carolina

Thanks Thom. That was very helpful.

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Brad

NO problem.

"If you did not learn anything today, you should have stayed in bed"

Capt Thom Nolan, of the good ship "About Time Off", Summerville South Carolina

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"If you did not learn anything today, you should have stayed in bed"

Capt Thom Nolan, of the good ship "About Time Off", Summerville South Carolina

WHEW-HOOOOOO!!!!!!  Took the boat out Sunday.  90 degrees here in North Augusta. What a glorious day!  The boat was great. It pulled the boarders fine. Good wake,, plenty of air! It does have a tendency to not want to cut off sometimes.  Not sure what that's about. But other than that, no probs. Looking forward to a memorable summer.   

 

                                             Brad    180br

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Brad

Sounds Great!

 For the run-on you mentioned, that 4.3 Carb'ed engine is notorious for that.  Couple of things you can do...lower the idle if it already is not low, let the engine cool down a bit before you shut it down, or (what worked for my old V6) run a can of STP "Complete Fuel System Treatment" in it every few tanks (the better $8 a bottle stuff, not the $2 stuff).

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Steve Kroesen
Apollo Beach, FL
Kroes Nest

Brad,

 You can also try dumping a can of Sea Foam in your gas.  Seemed to work well for me in stopping the "dieseling" effect you are talking about.  You can pick it up at any auto parts store.

 I also use it in my wifes car every time I change the oil.

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Thanks guys.  I'll give it a shot.

 

                                      Brad     180 br

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Brad

Is there anyone going to the Crowndezvous in June?   I'm real interested in that.  Sounds like a great time.  Also is it family friendly or adults mostly?

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Brad

Crowndezvous Attendees List

 There are 218 adults and 68 children signed up for this years rally at Lake Norris.  Plus some folks from Crownline, Prestige Trailers, and Nautical Ease that will be attending.

 We've closed the registration because we have started ordering the goodies but you can still get in on all the action and the dinners for a reduced cost.

Email us at 2007rally@crowndezvous.com for more information in you're interested.

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Brad, the Crownline events are usually very family oriented.  Because of that, it seems that most know to get away for the adult partying. 

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O'
"Little Mascara 3"
2003 266BR,496 MAG w/Bravo III

Yep, what Mike said.  This year we've got a new event planned just for the kids.  It's a Junior Crownie field meet and Daddy and Me Triathalon.  I don't know all the details because my wife is keeping it hush hush!!  But there's going to be lots of stuff for the kids to do along with an activity center on Friday night where you can drop the kids off if you want to have some "adult" time.

 Only 50 days until I'm at Norris stuffing goody bags!!

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Are you going to Beaufort on 6 9 07?

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"If you did not learn anything today, you should have stayed in bed"

Capt Thom Nolan, of the good ship "About Time Off", Summerville South Carolina